How to care for your sweaters so they don't pill

How to wash and care for vintage wool and knit sweaters without pilling

If you buy vintage sweaters (or love knitwear in general), sooner or later it will happen: pilling, lint, and "worn" areas will appear under the arms, on the sides, or where your backpack rubs against the fabric. This doesn't always mean poor quality. Often, it just meansfriction + regular washing.

At Premium Vintage Wholesale , we handle vintage sweaters every day. We check them, prepare them, and preserve them so that they arrive in good condition and last. Here is the method we use to reduce pilling (the little balls) and extend the life of the sweater.

Guide to vintage sweaters you want to keep looking like new

First: what is shedding and why does it happen?

What you see as little balls is usually pilling: loose fibers that get tangled up due to friction and form little balls. It happens more in areas of friction and also in blends with synthetics. And beware: it can even happen with wool and cashmere. 

In 30 seconds: what works best

• Wash the sweater inside out. 

• Use the delicate cycle + cold water and, if possible, a laundry bag. 

• Avoid fabric softener on wool/cashmere: it causes the fibers to soften and form pills.

• Dry flat (do not hang if heavy, do not tumble dry). 

• Remove lint balls with an electric lint remover or comb. 

1) Before washing

Turn it over and reduce friction

• Always upside down. Protect the outer surface from rubbing against the drum.

• If it is a delicate vintage sweater, put it in a laundry bag. This greatly reduces wear and tear.

Wash "spot by spot"

Do not mix sweaters with:

• towels

• tough cowboys

• clothing with exposed zippers or Velcro

That's a recipe for lumps and snags.

2) Washing

Settings we use

• Cold or cool water.

• Delicate program.

• Use a small amount of detergent (excessive amounts leave residue and damage the fabric).

• If the sweater allows it, short wash.

For wool/cashmere, use a specific detergent and avoid improvised solutions.

Fabric softener: better not

Fabric softener does not help with wool sweaters and many vintage knits. It can soften fibers and cause pilling from friction. 

3) Drying

What we do do

• Gently shake the sweater to "rearrange" the knit.

• Dry flat on a towel (without wringing).

• Shape it with your hands: shoulders, neck, and length.

What we don't do

• Dryer: increases friction and heat, and triggers pilling in many cases. 

• Hanging a heavy wet sweater: it will lose its shape.

4) Daily use: how to prevent lint from reappearing

This is common sense, but almost no one applies it:

• Don't always wear the same sweater with the same backpack/fanny pack.

• If it rubs too much on your sides or chest, alternate and "rest" the sweater.

• Avoid wearing it under jackets with rough interiors.

The less abrasion, the fewer pills.

5) Remove lint balls without damaging the fabric

Option 1: Electric lint remover

It's the fastest method and leaves the sweater looking great if you use it wisely. Home and testing media tend to agree that it works very well. 

How we do it:

1. Jersey on the table, stretched without tension.

2. Gentle strokes, without pressing down.

3. Don't obsess: two light passes are better than one aggressive one.

Option 2: disposable razor/blade

It works, but you have to be very careful here, because if you go too far, you'll make a hole. If you do it, use the same technique: flat surface, minimal pressure, short strokes. 

Option 3: jersey comb / "sweater stone"

Useful for specific points. If the sweater is vintage and delicate, it is usually safer than improvising.

Common mistakes that will ruin your sweater (and how to avoid them)

• Wash with rough fabrics or Velcro → separate by category.

• Fabric softener on wool/cashmere → avoid it. 

• Dryer "to make it soft" → destroys it in the medium term. 

• Rubbing stains as if it were a T-shirt → better to treat locally and calmly.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Do the little balls mean the sweater is bad?
  Not always. Even good fabrics can pill due to friction, fiber blend, and wear.
• Does a laundry bag really help?
  Yes. It reduces agitation and friction, which is exactly what causes pilling. 
• Which is better: a lint remover or a razor?
  A lint remover is usually easier to control. A razor works, but you have to be more careful not to damage the fabric.
• How often should I wash a vintage sweater?
  Less often than you might think. If it doesn't smell and doesn't have any stains, airing it out and letting it rest will help extend the life of the knit (and reduce friction from washing).

If you buy vintage sweaters (from us or elsewhere), treat them like what they are: clothing that has already proven to last. With less friction, better washing, and proper drying, you can greatly reduce pilling and make the sweater last for years.